The PCH - Chapter 5

Saturday July 10, 2004
Arroyo Grande, CA to Monterey, CA

Having scratched our breakfast itch, we were on the road up the coast through the heart of the Pismo Beach area. Highway 1, once again, swings inland just beyond Pismo as it turns toward San Luis Obispo. At San Luis Obispo, a near 90 degree bend to the west sends you shooting off toward the coast and toward Morro Bay.

As we rolled into Morro Bay, the landscape was dominated by a 576 foot rock called El Morro (which is Spanish for the Morro). I did not take the corresponding picture - this was 30 miles into our day and so we did not stop for this wonderful photo opportunity. My mental image of this place is so vivid that it almost wasn't necessary. Unfortunately, I had some trouble scanning my mental image - so I ripped this picture off the internet. You do not have to take my word for it, this little town is adorable and the landscape is stunning. I am certain land is a million dollars a square foot here, otherwise it would be a great place to retire.

This brings up a point that I should make about our trip. We had a destination. That may have been our biggest mistake (Bloodgood, do not take this personally). Had we not had a destination and plans to stay a couple of days with Bloodgood, we certainly would have stopped in this little town and had a beer at a local watering hole. I can't say that this is a regret because we had a wonderful trip. So, instead of regret, let's just call it a "future opportunity." I retain a future opporutnity to return to Morro Bay and watch the sun set over El Morro (which is Spanish for the Morro) while having a beer and some clam chowder. It was the "most beautiful place I have ever seen 2." (Herinafter, "most beautiful place I have ever seen" will be defined as "MBPIHES" and then denoted with an identifying number. The identifying number is merely to keep score as to how many times I said this during this trip and should not be used for wagering or other lottery-related purposes).

Beyond Morro Bay was the San Simeon area. San Simeon is where William Randolph Hearst's famous Hearst Castle is located. We stopped. We went inside. We found out that the tour lasted more than two hours. We left.

I am certain the Castle is very cool, but I would rather have spent my two hours having a beer at a pub in Morro Bay looking over El Morro (which is Spanish for the Morro). Hearst Castle remains a future opportunity.

Just past San Simeon is the area that is commonly referred to as Big Sur. While the map shows a town called Big Sur, I recall that it was a gas pump with outrageously expensive gas prices. But don't let that comment confuse my opinion of Big Sur because Big Sur is the MBPIHES3!!!.

Big Sur is really a region, not a specific, indentifiable spot along the road. It lacks clear boundaries, but it is generally a 90 mile stretch south of Carmel down to roughly Lucia, California. It is a windy, rocky, mountainous area. Highway 1 in this area is a roller coaster of dips and climbs. At one point the Highway is barely above sea level; in the next instant, it climbs to over 1200 feet in elevation. The entire stretch qualifies for the MBPIHES3 designation I have bestowed upon it.

The ride was slow, technical and exhausting. This piece of highway is very popular and the line of vehicles down this road were filled with people doing the same thing we were doing - and it did not include watching the road.

We stopped periodically and enjoyed the scenery. But traveling 90 miles at slow speed puts a dent in the day. We only have a limited number of daylight hours (and I would never want to ride at night and miss any of this incredible beauty). Accordingly, we keep our pauses brief and keep moving along while relishing the fact that we are alive and we are here.

Before long, we have passed through the Big Sur region and we are moving into the Carmel/Monterey area. As I write this, I want to go back. I want to go back right this minute. Monterey is a definitely a tourist area. I am a tourist. I think I have firmly established this fact. We hit the primary tourist area and visited the Cannery Row and Fisherman's Wharf area. Shops, tourists, restaurants...and we were hungry. How fortuitous that we managed to find a restaurant that served - SEAFOOD.

I am salivating while thinking about the Crab/Shrimp/Mushroom mixture poured over sourdough bread and then covered with Monterey Jack cheese.

Monterey remains full of future opportunities; after a hearty lunch we mounted up and hit the road.

San Francisco was so close we could taste it - either that or it was the lingering crab/shrimp/mushroom mixture. Whatever it was, it was good!